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The effect of fatigue on climbing fluidity and hand movements
Journal article   Peer reviewed

The effect of fatigue on climbing fluidity and hand movements

A Walsh, L Seifert, C Button, S Vial and J Croft
Sports biomechanics, Online ahead of print
2023
PMID: 36846867

Abstract

Rock climbing fluidity jerk movement hand movement
In rock climbing, climbers use their arms to regulate their posture on the wall, which can lead to localised muscle fatigue. Evidence shows fatigue is the primary cause of falls, but little is known about how fatigue specifically affects climbing rhythm and hand movements. The present study examined climbing fluidity and hand movements on an indoor climbing wall before and after a specific fatiguing protocol. Seventeen climbers completed three repetitions of a challenging climbing route (21 on Ewbank scale) with different levels of localised arm fatigue. Climbers' movements were tracked using 3D motion capture, and their hand actions assessed using notational analysis. Seventy markers were used to create 15 rigid body segments and the participants' centre of mass. The global entropy index was calculated on the path of the participants' centre of mass. Climbers fell more often when fatigued, but there were no significant differences in hip jerk or global entropy index when fatigued. No significant differences were found between the number of exploratory or performatory hand movements with different amounts of fatigue. The results suggest that localised arm fatigue affects a climber's ability to prevent themselves from falling, but it does not specifically affect their fluidity.

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Collaboration types
Domestic collaboration
International collaboration
Citation topics
1 Clinical & Life Sciences
1.34 Orthopedics
1.34.982 Tendon Therapies
Web Of Science research areas
Engineering, Biomedical
Sport Sciences
ESI research areas
Clinical Medicine
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